The first step in making the insert is to cut the blank to width. It starts with an oversized blank and then you fine-tune it to match the opening in your saw.Ĭutting the Blank. The photos you see here give you a good overview of the process. Making a zero-clearance insert is a pretty simple task.
Since buying several inserts can add up, I started making my own instead. If you switch to a thin-kerf blade or change the size of your dado blade, the benefits would be lost. That’s because an insert is fit to a specific blade. But I quickly realized that just one insert wasn’t enough - I needed a set. And right away, I saw a dramatic improvement in the quality of my cuts. I bought my first zero-clearance insert at a cost of $15. This fully supports the workpiece as it’s cut so fi bers can’t tear away. The reason you get better cuts with a zero-clearance insert is that the opening in the insert exactly matches the thickness of the blade. Thankfully, the solution is simple and inexpensive - a shop-made, zero-clearance insert. The trouble is even if your saw is tuned up, you can still end up with a ragged edge. No matter what the operation is, a clean, splinter-free cut is a must. I rely on my table saw for everything from crosscutting and ripping boards to cutting joinery like dadoes and rabbets.
